1. Routing Slots In Mdf Lumber
2. Routing Mdf Board

March 2016

Building Show-Me Speedway

This is a condensed version of the rebuilding of our track.

I started the jig with 1/4″ thick MDF. Cutting a strip just a hair larger than 1/4″ wide. After some light sanding, I fit it into a test slot I made earlier with the spiral router bit I was going to use to cut the dados. The MDF should be fairly snug, yet be able to slide in the dado without any wiggle side to side. The company complies with UK, Routing Slots In Mdf Maltese and European laws, regulations and guidelines for the prevention of money laundering and the funding of terrorism. Suspicious transactions shall Routing Slots In Mdf be investigated by the company and, if necessary, a suspicious transaction report will be made by the company to the competent Maltese or UK Authorities (or other. Fix the sections to the frame The sections will be fixed to the first layer of MDF (see the Frame submenu) while routing with temporary Tox screws, late they will be replaced with Hex socket screws through the track with Tee nuts mounted underneath the frames MDF. That will keep the sections in. MDF has been used in a number of recently built tracks, it produces a smoother surface and a smoother slot, it is better structurally. MDF is a little heavier, but perhaps thinner sheet can be used. The minimum thickness for the track surface is 12mm (1/2 inch), although if you are using chipboard, a greater thickness is an advantage. Cut a hole in a plank of MDF, then cut the plank in half to make two perfectly matching parts: the base and the rail. When the fence is assembled, the cutouts form an opening for the router bit. The fence base and rail will come from one piece of MDF. Cut this blank to 8-5/8 x 32 in. And drill a 3-in. Hole in the center with a jigsaw or hole saw.

This is all taken from the HRW Forum version put into a format that might be easier for you to reference if needed.

First is an intro video discussing the old track.

Materials/Tools

1/8' Router Bit -LINK
Gain Bit -LINK
1/4' Pre-Taped Braid -LINK
*You can apply the tape yourself. It is MUCH easier to have it done and well worth the extra expense to me. The time it saved me alone was worth it all and then some.
1/2' MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard)
Assorted Paints For Track Surface and Lane Colors (if needed)
Plexiglass Strip For Radius Gauge - Check your local Auto Glass shop.

You are going to need the common tools to construct your own table. Then you will need a router of course.

You do NOT need a high end, expensive router to build a slot car track.

The router on the left is what I purchased. I needed to route indoors for this project and the vacuum port for the Shop Vac is PRICELESS. It is a Performax brand found at Menard's.

You will need to mark and drill the holes for mounting to your router. Very easy. Use a hole saw bit for the center.

Remember this is for our OVAL. Routing a road course will require different sizes and/or strips.

I mark off a 3/8' wide outer cushion. There is an extra slot being routed on the outside that will be used to mount our wall. I need at least 3/8' to give it strength at the very edges.

Various stages of track design. I went with 4 inch lane spacing to have room for the 1/25th scale models we enjoy.

A yardstick a cheap and easy way to test your lane design. Mistake? Erase it and try again.

Example of one end routed.

To create a slight angle in the straights for effect, I used simple wood wall trim. I stacked 2 of them to create the effect I was after.

To finish the effect I mounted screws in the center. This easily bowed the track just enough. Remember, 1/2' MDF will bend more than you think without any need for undercutting.

A couple videos on hiding your screws and seams.

Adding some banking for the corners.

To create a very slight banked turn, just stack some wood blocks. I made the corners just slightly higher and it turned out perfect.

Routing the straights. Use a good board for a 'fence' to hold the router against.

Repair/Clean Up Videos

Routing Slots In Mdf Lumber

Just some methods for repair if needed.

Routing completed.

Routing Gains

Routing your gains is an easy task, but you need to take your time abnd TEST your depth. Too shallow of a run is an easy fix, but too deep and it's all over.

I prefer my braid depth to be as flush with the surface as possible.

Paint Choice

As the video explains, I prefer Satin Latex. Smooth finish and excellent grip/rubber absorption properties. I brush on my paint instead of rolling.

I usually use 3 full coats to create a durable finish. Your first coat is what I call a 'soaker' coat. The MDF will soak that first coat quickly. Allow it to fully dry about an hour or so before beginning the finish coats.

For the lanes I use the same type of Satin paint. These are the test jars from Lowe's again. Using the condiment squirt bottles (Slot Car Corner Lane Color Ditribution System) really makes it easier to get a complete coat inside the slot and gains.

First we mask off the lanes. Then I cut out the center with an Exacto blade.

These images are from our first track, but they apply here as an the example.

Make sure your gains are fully coated. The adhesive on the back of the braid does not stick to bare MDF very well. So even if you do not want to paint your lanes a certain color, make sure it's fully coated with your base track color.

Laying Your Braid

Before you begin, use a 1/4' drill bit to create your 'drops'. I use a square to line things up. With braid I did NOT need a power tap. You can make one if you feel the need.

Rolling the braid is important to fully seat the braid/adhesive. I roll the braid once a month just to make sure but normally once you roll it a few times after installation, you are good to go.

Finish Work

This shows why we routed that outside edge. I chose Plexiglass to create a more durable wall system. Again, the video explains it all.

Timing

Still use and trust the Trackmate system.

Installation is the same as we coveredHERE IN OUR TRACKMATE REVIEW.

Final Thoughts

I hope these videos and photos help you in some way to create your own wood track.

- Harry

Thanks again toSlot Car Corner and all the people on our forum who are always ready to help.

Copyright © 2016 Home Racing World

Introduction

This article is part of our CNC Beginners Cookbook series.

Workholding is the generic term for any device or method used to firmly hold your workpiece while machining it. While CNC Routers are technically milling machines, and they share some similarities in workholding, they’re basically a whole new ballgame.

Spoilboard

A spoilboard is a disposable work surface mounted atop the router’s permanent table. The spoilboard is typically MDF and protects the router table from damage as well as being an expendable surface that can participate in workholding.

From time to time a spoilboard will need to be surfaced. That means using a spoilboard cutter to clean up any gouges or cuts and make the board flat and parallel to X and Y axis travel.

Screw into Spoilboard

This is a very common method and involves screwing into the spoilboard to hold the work. It’s cheap and cheerful, but it does leave holes in the workpiece and can be slow. For tasks like this, grab an electric impact driver, air ratchet or similar tool to help drive the screws faster (as well as removing them faster). Another disadvantage aside from it being slow to bolt things down is that hitting one of the screws with a cutter will often break the cutter. If it’s travelling at feeds and speeds intended for wood or other soft materials, it’s going way to fast when it unexpectedly hits hard metal.

Polymer Nails into Spoilboard

This interesting idea is courtesy of James Irmiger of TechShop SOMA and Instructables. The idea is to use polymer (plastic) nails to secure the workpiece to the spoilboard:

Using Polymer Nails to secure the workpiece to the spoilboard…

According to James, the process is a little bit fussy and requires adjustment of air pressure and can be sensitive to overly hard wood. But, when once it is dialed in, it works great. Removing the workpiece just requires a little tap with a mallet to break the nails–they’re strong at resisting pullout but shear off easily. With a nail gun, this technique can be a lot faster than screwing into the spoilboard.

Double Sided Tape and Glue Fixturing

Small parts that don’t expect high cutting forces can do well with double sided tape and various kinds of glue.

One popular method is to use painter’s tape and super glue.

Here’s what you do:

1. Scuff the pieces and clean as best you can. For metal, I clean with acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or brake cleaner.
2. Apply the painter’s tape. That’s the blue stuff painter’s use to mask parts.
3. Apply super glue to the tape.
4. Lay the part down carefully onto the tape. Try to make sure any air escapes.
5. Clamp it briefly or put a weight on it.

Your part should now be adhered to your bed and it will be held pretty solidly.

How do you get the parts loose?

Pry up with screwdriver, putty knife, or razor blade. You can also soak it in acetone, which will dissolve the superglue. Lastly, heat will break it loose. Be very careful with heat:

Danger: Super glue, or cyanoacrylite, releases toxic cyanide gas when heated!

You may need to sand or fly cut the superglue off in the worst case, but it usually doesn’t come to that.

Clamps and T-Slots/T-Track

On CNC Routers, T-Slots are typically created using T-Track, which are metal T-Slots designed to be attached to your MDF spoilboards.

Rockler T-Track bolted down to top of MDF with Clamps…

Rockler T-Track Intersection Kit in a recessed slot with a typical bolt used with the track. Rockler has a wide variety of parts and kits for T-Tracking…

There are a wide variety of different T-Track systems and accessories for them available if you search the web. T-Tracks can be very versatile, but like bolting through to the spoilboard, you must take care the router doesn’t hit a bolt or T-Track in the middle of the job.

Tab Supports: Workholding Via CAM Software

Routing Mdf Board

What if your CAM software could solve some major workholding problems for you, wouldn’t that be neat?

Turns out some CAM software can help out with workholding quite a lot by automatically creating tabs. Here’s a video of MeshCAM’s facility for creating tab supports to help machine a part that has to be machined on 2 sides and is awkward to hold otherwise:

Using MeshCAM to add tab supports so you can machine a part on 2 sides…

We offer MeshCAM at CNCCookbook because it’s one of the easiest to use CAM packages there is.

Vacuum Tables

Vacuum Tables are often the best solution for the flat sheet work often being done on CNC Routers. We’ve got an entire article dedicated to CNC Router Vacuum Tables, so click through to check it out:

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